A Bible For The Travelling Irish (And Others) - September 2004

Amazing. Awesome. Extraordinary. These are not words commonly associated with accommodations in Ireland, are they? Last spring, however, during a round-the-country drive, I stayed at some of the best hotels and bed-and-breakfast establishments anywhere. I wouldn’t, hesitate to compare them to the best of the best and I’m certain they’d come out on top. Before setting out, I bought John and Sally McKenna’s Bridgestone Guide, 100 Best Places to Stay in Ireland 2004. The book is published annually by Estragon Press in Durrus, Co. Cork, and costs €10. (The McKenna’s also write a food lover’s guide to Northern Ireland and food guides to the 100 best restaurants and a vegetarian guide to Ireland.)

We used the accommodation book all over Ireland -in the North and in the Republic - and found, for the most part, that the recommendations were, as they say, right on the money. One B&B owner in Wexford described the book as “the Irishman’s Bible. When the Irish go away,” he said, “this is what they use.” The Best Places to Stay guide is written by John McKenna, with Sally as publishing editor. Contributing editors include Orla Broderick, Elizabeth Field, Claire Goodwillie and Caroline Workman.

In their introduction, the McKenna’s write, “From County Louth through to the border zone of Donegal, the region now has some truly excellent addresses. So, it’s time to celebrate the new places, and time also to praise those who have toiled away here for years, during a time when the region was seen not just as an area devoid of good places, but when it was effectively a no-go area.

“The new addresses also offer excellent value for money, something we have sought with a particular vengeance this year. For it seems to us that many of the country houses in Ireland now offer poor value for money: if you want to find ‘rip-off Ireland’ you need only stay at some of those grand houses where they will charge hotel prices for domestic cooking and also expect you to pay a healthy tithe to stay in a room just because the house is ancient. “These people need to wake up: price sensitivity is the new addiction, and those addresses offering value have had another triumphant year in 2003.”

Agreed that many manor houses in Ireland are very pricey indeed but, if you can afford the fare, they also offer, in my opinion, a once-upon-a-time charm and grace and glimpse of that bygone era you won’t find in slick, modern hotels. We would have to temper that comment somewhat, however, by adding that the Park Hotel in Kenmare and Bushmills Inn in Co. Antrim, Northern Ireland, are elegant hotels that have not lost a bit of charm despite being totally modern.

We did not agree with all the McKenna’s recommendations as we went from place to place but most often we were put off more by the personalities and attitudes of some of the B&B owners than by the establishments themselves.

There was one listing, however, that we really didn’t like and couldn’t understand why it is included among the 100 best. It’s a townhouse in Cashel with rooms that have about as much charm as a 1950s motel. My room overlooked the street, was noisy and not the least bit appealing, despite the fact that the B&B is situated at the base of the Rock of Cashel. Breakfast was okay and at least our waitress was pleasant.

But there were so many great accommodations listed in the McKenna’s book that the plusses far outweighed the minuses.

B&Bs
We especially enjoyed a number of B&Bs all over the island and will write about them in more detail in the months ahead. One of our favourites was An Bohreen, just outside Dungarvan. It is spotlessly clean and bright with a host and hostess who are outgoing and delightful and - an added bonus - the meals are absolutely superb! For me to admit to that means that An Bohreen must have been out of the ordinary because I have never been a fan of establishments in Ireland ran by Americans and I mostly stay away from theme After all, don’t you visit a foreign country to chat with the natives and learn more about them and their country? If you wanted to visit with Americans, wouldn’t you stay home?

Having said all that, it turns out that An Bohreen is owned and operated by two Americans, as is another great B&B, Bow Hall in Castletownshend. Both B&Bs were amazing places to stay and the host and hostess of each was absolutely delightful and made you feel right at home.

An Bohreen is a beautiful, new house set on a Co. Waterford hilltop with windows that look out on green fields and Dungarvan Harbour in the distance. The rooms are spotless and nicely decorated, towels are thick and absorbent (not something you always find in Irish bathrooms) and the shower is great. Jim Mulligan was born in Ireland but moved with his family to the states when he was a child. He is outgoing and friendly and funny and informative and an all-around great ambassador for his country - and ours! Ann, his wife, is so busy in the kitchen creating mouth-watering dinners and/or breakfasts that she isn’t as much in evidence as Jim but she’s delightful and friendly and warm when she does take a break to join the crowd. Ann trained at the Ballymaloe Cooking School but we suspect that she was a pretty great cook before she ever got to Ireland.

Dinner at An Bohreen - we reserved our table and stated our entree preferences the day before - was unbelievable and would silence forever those who say the food in Ireland isn’t gourmet. The Mulligan’s pride themselves on their wine selection, which was outstanding and perfectly complimented the entrees.

I had heard about An Bohreen from Helena Johnson, an Irish native who now lives in Norwell, Mass. But, you know how those things go and you know that when you take someone’s recommendation, it can be a disappointment. But, that was certainly not the case with An Bohreen. We originally had booked in for one night but, after that first night, we were lucky enough to be able to extend for a second night. We could have stayed for a month, but surely at the expense of our waistlines with Anne’s cooking!

Jim said the B&B opened in 2000 (the year Foot and Mouth disease hit the country), then there was the 9/ 11 disaster and then the war in Iraq. But in spite of those events, which have kept Americans from visiting some places around the world, An Bohreen’s reputation has flourished and their business has been steadily increasing. If you want to book there, be sure to make a reservation (e-mail is mulligans@anbohreen.com) or call in Ireland at (051) 291010. Most major credit cards are accepted. The website is anbohreen.com

Magic Tree
One area attraction that Jim told us not to miss was the “Magic Tree,” on the road up to Mahon Falls off the N25. A “magic tree?” Surely, he jests. The skeptic in us took hold and we doubted that it was so. Not so, it is true and the best fun ever and if you are in that area you must try it out. Here’s how it goes. You take the road signposted off the N25 towards the Falls and turn left over the clanking cattle guard imbedded in the roadway. Then you drive for half a mile and look for a fairy tree (a solitary tree) beside the road. Stop, put your car in neutral and the car goes backwards - uphill. The experience was like being a kid at an amusement park! It was so much fun! “Can we do it one more time, please, please?” Our van driver, Tim Durham - a friend and one of the last of the world’s great sceptics - took a tennis ball from his stock of travelling gear and’ it too rolled up the hill. “It’s just an optical illusion that it’s uphill. That’s all,” he said. “Poor sport!” I said, and asked him to try it with the car once again. Sorry, Tim, but it was the best fun ever!

Remember: If you are looking for fun things to do in Ireland (like visit the Magic Tree) or for great accommodations, be sure to contact your favourite travel agent, call Tourism Ireland in New York at 800-223-6470, or visit tourismireland.com or discover northernireland.com