An Bohreen Review In Irish Independent By Lucinda O'Sullivan - July 20th 2003

Jim and Ann Mulligan built their house overlooking Dungarvan Bay with guests in mind, for everything is done to perfection. Jim was born in Dublin, but went with his family to the United States when he was 16 spending most of his life in Frasier territory - Seattle. Ann is American - absolutely delightful and the most fabulous cook, with a penchant for French food.

Located on a height, on the Dublin side of Dungarvan, amongst a few newly-built bungalows, it is 'bungalow bliss' with a difference. An Bohreen could perhaps be described as the "architectural" one, with its curved feature windows. As we drove in, Jim was out the door and over to the car to greet us, insisting on carrying our bags. Even in many hotels they now just hand you your key and say: "You're in room 22705 on the 16th floor and the lift is out of order".

Bedrooms are standard size, but each one is very nicely furnished with antique dressing tables, good quality, pretty bedlinen, bathrobes, and lamps, but nothing too frilly or frou-frou. The dining area has a clear airy uncluttered feel with a lovely view right down over the Gaeltacht area of Ring, Dungarvan Bay and its oyster beds.

Ann likes to know in advance your main course - generally a choice of West Waterford lamb, loin of pork or Helvick (wild) salmon which is bought fresh each day. We kicked off with a rich cream of onion soup, topped with Cashel blue cheese and thyme which was absolutely superb. This was followed by a crisp chopped salad with slivers of red pepper, cucumber and a honey dressing.

My large darne of wild salmon, napped with an Asian glaze, was resting against beautifully light champ, but to the side was an intriguing stuffed mushroom filled with cheese and cockles - very French and quite gorgeous. Brendan had chosen the lamb - two very generous tranches of herb-crusted loin with a red wine and mint jus, so tender, so beautiful, which also lay on top of silky champ with mustard-glazed carrots. On the side there was a dish of tiny petit pois mixed with pieces of courgette, mange tout, and haricots vert - all just so perfectly crisp.

Jim was in and out, most attentive and friendly in an unobtrusive way. Ann came out to take her bows and tempt us with delicious puddings - was there no limit to this woman's talent? Almond and Pinenut Tart it was. "Would I like it with strawberries and perhaps a drizzle of blueberry reduction mixed with Rumtopf?" Would I what? They even have a wine list in this B&B, from which we chose the Michel Lynch Bordeaux 2001 (€24).

We slept like a dream in our room which looked out at the Comeragh mountains, and next morning the culinary perfection started all over again.

Breakfasts are spaced by 15 minutes "so that everyone gets individual attention and time spent with them". On each table was a glass of iced water with a slice of lemon, two little white dishes of orange butter, and ordinary butter with a decorative swirls, hot brown and fruit scones, and homemade preserves.

We were quickly brought freshly-squeezed orange juice - "If you don't like the bits, I can strain it" - plus a beautiful bowl of sliced fruit. . . melon, strawberries, apples, all perfectly manicured. Apart from the full Irish there were pancakes with caramelized apple; porridge with Irish mist; oat muesli with fresh fruit; scrambled egg with smoked salmon or cheese. I opted for the scrambled egg - did I like it American-style firm, or Irish-style soft? Perfectly-formed golden yellow scrambled egg was amidst little chubby triangles of toast topped with ribbons of red and white cheddar and, on the side, was a deliciouslittle potato cake, black pudding and tomato and flatleafparsley.

Brendan had the full Irish - very full - including a potato cake and Superquinn sausages which Jim believes are "just the best".

I watched Jim talk to American visitors and admired his enthusiasm for his native country - he is the best thing to come into Irish tourism in a long time and should be out there talking for Ireland - Dungarvan is very lucky to have him. Having directed American guests to various potteries and booked them into their next stay, he said, "If you have time, I will take you up to see the fairy bush."

"Well, this is just too good to miss," we thought, usually being in a situation where the money is grabbed as we are hurried out the door. The fairy bush is covered with bits of ribbon and mementos that people pin to it, I suppose for their wishes or whatever, but the idea is you drive down the hill, stop at the fairy bush, and, lo and behold, your car starts to reverse back up the hill on its own . . . and it does. Try it. You'll all be rushing out to buy Faith of our Fathers all over again! It is a very undiscovered part of Ireland and a great base for walkers, or golfers, or nowadays even foodies, to explore the area. There are 'seisuns' every week in the Park Hotel which Jim tells us are so fabulous they "make the hair stand on the back of your neck".

Now let me tell you what all of this cost and please, all you Celtic-Tiger-weary souls, don't collapse. With B&B at €34; dinner €30; plus our wine €24; our bill was €76 each - a total of €152 for two. I know, I know, it almost sounds too good to be true, but it's not. I wonder do they do Christmas Dinner or could I move in . . . American-style, French-style, Irish-style, I'll take it any which way Jim and Ann Mulligan dish it up.